What makes them tick
Forget socks; your timepiece is the truest indicator of your age
PHOTOGRAPHY by CLAUDIA SMITH AT AFTER WINTER
STYLING by ANNALIESE DOIG
WORDS by ZARA WONG
We all know that luxury watches do far more than just tell the time; they’re also a window into our personalities. For those who understand these things, a timepiece can often reveal who you are (or who you want to be) – and even, as it turns out, your age. “Younger generations check the time on their phones, so the watch is an artpiece in function and fashion,” says Jessica ‘JJ’ Owens, a 26-year-old watch connoisseur from the Daily Grail, an editorial platform that celebrates watch craftsmanship. Owens’ first foray into watches started at the age of 13 when she was given a Cartier ‘Tank’ by her father, so she knows first-hand what a watch aficionado seeks.
For GEN Z, who sacrifice time-telling for aesthetic value, it’s the Cartier ‘Baignoire’ that’s captured attention. Its oval face and delicate strap allows it to be stacked with other bracelets, and it’s recently been worn by Emma Chamberlain and Kendall Jenner and appeared in an Aimé Leon Dore campaign. Inspired by women’s watches, men’s timepieces are getting smaller, too. Up-and-comers include the Piaget ‘Polo’ in all gold or Omega’s ‘Constellation’ in a pretty 25mm face. Proving what goes around comes around, these daintier styles were considered dated not so long ago. For Owens, they’re still yet to hit the mainstream, so start collecting them now. “Any watch that was classically considered a jewellery watch is underrated – there was a common misconception that jewellery watches weren’t nearly as worthy or important as highly complicated watches,” says Owens, who also suggests looking at Chopard and Graff.
Cartier ‘Baignoire’ watch, $21,000. COURTNEY ZHENG bralette, $245.
With MILLENNIALS still seeking their place in the world – not to mention approval – their watches are key to making a statement on status. “Millennials, like gen Z, have grown up in the social media era and want something recognisable; having something your peers will know is a far greater priority to them than it was for our parents,” says Owens. Following on from the watch-as-jewellery trend, the Bulgari ‘Serpenti’, made famous after Elizabeth Taylor wore it on the Cleopatra set, is now worn by the likes of Zendaya and Priyanka Chopra, while Chopard’s jewel-embellished ‘Happy Diamonds’ collection has found a new fanbase nearly 50 years after it was first launched. And homing in on millennials’ desire to invest in experiences and art rather than just pure objects, Lana Del Rey’s Jacob & Co. ‘Fleurs de Jardin’ watch is an extreme example of a timepiece that’s ‘more’ – it’s so complex, it’s like wearing a universe on the wrist. “It’s stunning and mesmerising every time you look down and see the baby components,” says Owens, who has tried on a version herself.
CHOPARD ‘Happy Diamonds Icons’ watch, $16,100. HARRIS TAPPER T-shirt, $292.
“The older generations still have a vast desire for function over form,” says Owens. For GEN X’S more pragmatic approach, less ostentatious pieces hold gravitas, like the Patek Philippe ‘Nautilus’ or the expertly crafted timepieces by Vacheron Constantin – a favourite of Princess Diana. Sportier styles from the likes of Tag Heuer, Hublot and Montblanc, or Chanel’s ‘J12’, have been designed to withstand everything from high altitudes to deep sea diving – adventures the owner may never pursue, but at least they have the option.
CHANEL ‘J12’ watch, $16,200
BABY BOOMERS, long the stalwarts of the luxury market, prioritise true investment pieces such as those by Richard Mille – worn by Michelle Yeoh and Kendall Roy in Succession (not technically of this generation, but he gives off Boomer energy). Or look to Chanel, which leans on its haute couture pedigree by incorporating its house codes into the ‘Première’ collection.
ROLEX ‘GMT-Master II’ watch, $17,150. Harris Tapper blazer, $745.
There are, of course, the watches that surpass time, generations and trends. Audemars Piguet’s ‘Royal Oak’ is a contender for its cross-generational appeal; its inexhaustive list of fans includes Hailey Bieber, Leandra Medine Cohen, Travis Scott, Serena Williams and Bobby in the television show Billions. Then, there’s the Rolex ‘Datejust’, which “has such a vast appeal, not only because of the style but the sentiment,” says Owens. “To this day, I still feel whether you are 16 or 60, Rolex is a marker of some kind of achievement.” Think of these as the Birkins of the watch world – they’re the sign you have ‘made it’, you’ve hit that milestone. And that’s something that resonates across all generations.
HAIR: Adam Dyer at Saunders & Co.
MAKEUP: Kristyan Low at DLMAU.
MODELS: Alyssa Peoples, Cameron Stephens And Anisha Mistri At Kult; Rachel Waller At Img.
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